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BLUE ELEPHANT, BANGKOK
The Thai Chine Building, a colonial-style mansion on Sathorn
Road, has long been one of the city's architectural landmarks.
Now, it's also home to the Blue Elephant, which serves flawless
versions of traditional Thai classics, from a potent, briny
tom yam koong prawn soup to a rich salmon laab
(a raw - fish salad with chillies and leafy herbs ). The menu
includes some up-country specialties that are exotic even to
Bangkok folk, such as rice-field snails in red curry and
Running Crocodile stir-fried croc meat with fresh basil, palm
heart, and a generous dose of black pepper and chillies. The
desserts are superb, even if you think you don't like durian,
the infamous stinky fruit, try the silky, subtle durian
cheesecake ( 66 - 2 - 673 - 9353 ; entrées. $4-$12 )
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